Duke’s is stark. On purpose. Everything about this place is designed to help you concentrate on the hickory-smoked barbecued pork. It is served in big chunks at a cafeteria line that also includes rice, hash (a stewlike mixture made from pork shoulders), a choice of red sauce that is four-alarm hot or yellow mustard sauce that is sweet and tangy (unique to central South Carolina), and pickles. The drink of choice is pre-sweetened ice tea; and each table is outfitted with a few loaves of Sunbeam bread, which is just the right thing for mopping a plate of all its good sauce. Please note the limited hours. Duke’s is open for lunch and supper only on Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday. In the tradition of the old-time pig-pickin’, South Carolinians consider a meal like this a weekend celebration.