Food

Gwen Fowler

SOUTH CAROLINA INSIDER

 

The Glass Onion 'my kind of place'

Posted 9/9/2012 6:00:00 PM

I first heard about the Glass Onion several years ago. I checked out the website and thought the Charleston restaurant it sounded like my kind of place.

Then a couple of years ago, I got my hands on a copy of “Glass Onion Classics.” I drooled over the recipes, and, again, I thought it sounded like my kind of place.

Finally, several weeks ago, a friend and I went to dinner at the Glass Onion. It is so my kind of place. I just wish I lived down the street so I could go there a few times a week. It’s very casual, our server was friendly and knowledgeable, and the food was excellent.

Our meal started with a small bowl of boiled peanuts, cooked just right, and corn bread drizzled with honey. That’s a huge dose of Southern comfort food for starters.

My friend had a bowl of butter bean bisque. I had a taste and loved the creaminess and the beans and ham flavor.

My entrée was barrelfish, a type of fish found off the coast of Charleston that is firm and mild. I had never had barrelfish before, but it was delicious. The Glass Onion served it on a bed of mashed potatoes, which was on top of a vegetable succotash that was so tasty it could have been a meal by itself. The main ingredients were okra, corn and tomatoes.

My friend had the shrimp with Andouille sausage and tomatoes over Anson Mills grits. This is more like a shrimp creole served on grits rather than the type of shrimp and grits served at most Charleston restaurants. Co-owner Sarah O’Kelley, also the author of the cookbook, spent time working in New Orleans, and there’s a definite Louisiana influence on the food.

For dessert, I chose the yummy chocolate banana pound cake with caramel buttercream frosting, and my friend had the chocolate pecan pie.

Many of the items on the menu tell the source of the food, and our waiter told us the food is prepared with very local ingredients. “Glass Onion Classics” includes profiles of some favorite supplies, such as Mark and Annie Filion of Keegan Filion Farm in Walterboro and Glenn Roberts of Anson Mills, as well as profiles of some people who influenced the owners’ love of food and cooking.

I’m eager to return to this restaurant again. How appropriate that the website name is “I love the Glass Onion” -- www.ilovetheglassonion.com.