High fashion in the Holy City

Arts and Culture 2011

Amy Holtcamp

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Robe à la Française

Open-front sack-back gown, c. 1770, with elaborate fly fringe ornamentation and matching petticoat. It was worn over side hoop panniers for a fashionable silhouette. This dress was worn by a member of the family of Henry Middleton, President of the Continental Congress. Courtesy of The Charleston Museum.
Thomas Pinckney suit coat

Embroidered purple velvet suit coat worn by Thomas Pickney for his court visits, clearly placing him at the height of fashion for 1793. Pinckney was ambassador to the Court of St. James during George Washington's administration. Courtesy of The Charleston Museum.
Saffron gold silk dress

Dress c. 1869, with organdy and lace edging, green and cream satin ribbons. The overskirt gathers up in to add emphasis to the back, a precursor to the bustle. This gown was worn by Frances Olmsted (later Mrs. Richard Maynard Marshall) when she attended the first St. Cecilia Ball held after the Civil War. Courtesy of The Charleston Museum.
Delphos or Greek-style dress

Designed by Mariano Fortuny, this style was introduced in Venice around 1907 and became the height of fashion. He was noted for perfecting a technique of pleating sheer silk and for his use of natural dyes. This gown has Venetian glass beads on the neckline drawstring and was worn by Ethel Sanford (1873-1924). Donated by Gertrude Sanford Legendre. Courtesy of The Charleston Museum.
Black chiffon evening dress

This dress dates to the 1920s and has a fashionable low waist and a stunning long side train. The asymmetrical neckline is ornamented with applied pearls, the dress edges are trimmed with silver metallic braid. It was worn by Gertrude Sanford Legendre, international socialite and owner of Medway Plantation on the Cooper River. Courtesy of The Charleston Museum.
Coral silk and chiffon cocktail dress

This dress, c. 1945, was made by Lee Claire of New York and sold by the fashionable dress shop Margaret Riley's of Charleston. This dress was worn by Margaret Middleton Rivers, wife of U.S. Rep. L. Mendel Rivers of Charleston. Courtesy of The Charleston Museum.

Posted 7/2/2012 4:44:00 PM

Charleston has always been a city of high style, good taste and elegant fashions. Now through Nov. 4, the Charleston Museum’s exhibit Charleston Couture traces 200 years of the city’s fashion trends.

The exhibition showcases gowns, suits and accessories worn by Charlestonians from 1770-1970. As citizens of a wealthy port city, people from Charleston were well traveled and had great access to the latest fashions from Europe. On display are 19th century gowns by Charles Frederick Worth, widely considered to be the “father of haute couture” and Spanish fashion designer Mariano Fortuny. Also featured are dresses by local Charleston dressmakers.

The dresses in this show are simply exquisite. The sumptuous fabrics, dripping with embellishments, are lavish, elegant and graceful. It’s also fascinating to see how dramatically fashions have changed over just 200 years. The early pieces are made of layer upon layer of embroidered fabric, which is meant to be worn over elaborate underpinnings and hoops. Later pieces – like the coral silk chiffon cocktail dress – conform to the body’s natural shape and are charming in their easiness and flow.

The Charleston Museum is open Monday-Saturday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sunday from 1 to 5 p.m. Admission is $10 for adults, $5 for kids ages 3-12, and free for children 2 and younger.

For more information, click here.